SUNNRL · Novel Photoprotective Cosmetics: From Fundamental Science to Product

Novel Photoprotective Cosmetics: From Fundamental Science to Product

Sunscreens (lotions, creams, sprays, etc.) contain active ingredients which protect the skin from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, usually classified as UVA and UVB, by absorbing this harmful radiation. Active ingredients such as octocrylene, oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate are commonly used in sunscreens to provide protection against UVB radiation, but some of these ingredients are potentially damaging to marine environments. There is a much more limited list of ingredients which protect against UVA radiation, and the ones available present challenges related to the ingredient’s stability under light exposure, and their cost. This project aimed to establish a unique, innovative and interdisciplinary approach to sunscreen development based on a thorough understanding of how molecules dissipate absorbed radiative energy. The goal is to find a more direct avenue towards improved sunscreens, without having to engage in costly and time-consuming ‘trial-and-error’ sunscreen development. To achieve its goals, the project focused on methyl anthranilate (MA), a food grade flavour and fragrance additive used in personal care products which is also a strong UVA absorber. Its low risk of toxicity to humans, agreeable fragrance, relative ease of extraction from natural products and affordability make MA a strong candidate for use in commercial sunscreen formulations. However, previous studies found MA to be inneficient in dissipating energy from UV radiation, which is a non-optimum behaviour in sunscreen active ingredients. An ideal sunscreen active ingredient should be able to dissipate excess energy quickly and as heat, without generating any reactive species. In order to harvest the good sunscreen qualities of MA and combat its downsides, this project aims to combine MA with other sunscreen active ingredients, namely, UVB filters such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and octocrylene. The interactions between MA and these UVB filters have been found to facilitate MA’s excess energy dissipation as heat. The other important goal of this project is to compare the photophysics observed in dilute solution to those observed in complex sunscreen formulations, in order to establish if the findings of fundamental studies are relevant to final product development and indeed if they can be applied to guide and inform sunscreen development. The dissemination of the project was mainly done through publication of peer-reviewed articles and participation in scientific conferences. Public engagement activities were not possible due to COVID-19 restrictions.

Data: CORDIS, © European Union