H2020Индивидуална стипендия2019–2021

IDCLOTHING · Clothing, fashion and nation building in the Land of Israel

„Хоризонт 2020“ — Действия „Мария Склодовска-Кюри“

Период: 2019-01-14 → 2021-01-13
Финансиране от ЕС: 170 509 €
Участници: 1
Схема: MSCA-IF-EF-ST

Линиите свързват координатора с партньорите.

Накратко на български

Облеклата и идеалите за красота на еврейските имигранти от Източна Европа и Германия до 1948 г. разкриват как се формира националната идентичност в Израел. Анализът помага да се разберат връзките между модата, властта и интеграцията на различни групи при масовата миграция.

Този кратък обзор е генериран от изкуствен интелект

Кратко обяснение, генерирано от езиков модел по текста на CORDIS. Оригиналът е по-долу.

Резултати накратко

Clothing, fashion and nation building in the Land of Israel

Despite its rich scholarship, research on nation building has paid little attention to the role of cultural practices and aesthetic perceptions. Taking “Eretz Israel” (the “Land of Israel”) as a highly suitable case study, this project explores the history of migration through clothing, fashion and ideals of beauty, and contends that examining these cultural practices brings to the fore the agency of vastly different migrant groups, thus adding a personal dimension to the history of nation building. By looking at Eastern European and German Jewish immigrants as the two largest diaspora groups from the 1880s until the foundation of the Israeli state in 1948, the project investigates how clothing became fashion and to what extent and to what purpose a consensual mode of dress emerged within a heterogeneous migrant society that was influenced simultaneously by the local Arab population, the Ottoman and British occupying authorities, and the socio-cultural and political practices of the countries of origin. With an unprecedented focus on gender, visual materials and the development of a common mode of aesthetic perception and sense of fashion within a community, the project offers a highly original perspective on the emergence of a nation and national identities. The project has a strong and timely social relevance. In times of mass immigration, economic exploitation and mobility in a global dimension, it contributes to an understanding of aesthetic perceptions, dress and beauty ideals as an expression of power relations, cultural hybridity, integration and exclusion. By underlining the historical role of Europeans as immigrants and the constructed character of national identities, it promotes a perception of migration and diversity as cultural enrichment. It aims at promoting tolerance and openness in times in which nationalist and right wing groups propagate an image of immigrants as a threat to ‘national identities’.

Текст от CORDIS, на английски · Данни: CORDIS, © Европейски съюз

Цел на проекта

Culture is central to nation building, but clothing, fashion and aesthetic perceptions are often overlooked in this context. Taking ""Eretz Israel"" (the ""Land of Israel"") as a case study, this project argues that investigating these cultural practices brings to the fore the agency of migrant groups and adds a personal dimension to the history of nation building. Focusing on the period from the 1880s when large-scale migration began, until the foundation of the Israeli state in 1948, it investigates how Eastern European and German Jewish immigrants expressed social, cultural and political belonging through clothing and to what extent they were able to enforce their ideologies in the course of nation building. It asks to what extent the immigrants influenced each other in developing a specific mode of dress, and how they referenced the socio-cultural and political practices of countries of origin, as well as the clothing of Arab people and the Ottoman and British occupying authorities. With an unprecedented focus on gender and visual materials, the project examines how clothing became fashion and to what extent a consensual mode of dress emerged within a heterogeneous migrant society. Drawing from archival collections of 15 archives in Israel, Poland and England, and 6 Israeli, German, American and Russian databases, the project analyses private and public photographs and posters, and contextualises them against an assessment of written material and oral history interviews. Through highly interdisciplinary training, the project develops a new methodology that integrates approaches from fashion history and visual culture into the history of nation building to shed light on the processes of negotiation and power struggles on the micro level of a community. In times of mass migration, economic exploitation and global mobility the project contributes to an understanding of aesthetic perceptions, dress and beauty ideals as an expression of power, integration and exclusion.""

Оригинален текст от CORDIS (на английски).

Участници

THE HEBREW UNIVERSITY OF JERUSALEM · JerusalemКоординаторИзраел